I have been yearning to go to Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan since the first time I learnt of the two islands. Imagine my happiness when I got to do just that. Lembongan and Ceningan are the kind of places that I am uncertain if I should and/or want to share about. There is a part of me that wants to tell everyone who would listen about this perfect slice of paradise, and the other part of me wants to selfishly keep it all to myself and do everything I possibly can to stop everyone else from going there.
The Nusas are tiny islands off the southeast coast of Bali, and are of completely different worlds from their big sister. They are often preferred by people who seek refuge from the rambunctious crowds of Bali's more popular spots. The rhythm of daily activities moves ever so slowly - there is no need to rush, and no need to worry. I was enamored with the simplicity of the life the locals lead. Even a gas station cannot be found on the island - only rows of bottled gasoline are on sale by the street side. When we arrived at the central of Lembongan that is Jungutbatu, I was expecting a cluster of shops and bars, but instead what welcomed us was simply a string of little restaurants, stalls, and homes that were also converted into mini marts.
Apart from being fishermen, the locals make ends meet by being seaweed farmers - working at green patches of seaweed fields in the shallow waters of Lembongan and Ceningan. Everywhere you go, you will see bundles of them, varying in different shades of green, drying under the sun. As we explored the back roads of the islands, local women and children were spotted selling seashells and handmade souvenirs. Some may regard the two islands as 'uncivilized' due to their lack of modernization and development, but to me it is just the most peaceful and relaxing place you could wish for - it is the perfect escape for some body, soul, and mind cleansing.
As in the rest of Bali, the people of Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan are devout Hindus. Beautifully and intricately decorated temples can be abundantly observed all around the islands. Traditions and religious ceremonies seem to be part of their everyday life, and these colorful and lively events will definitely be seen (and heard as they can be rather loud) at least once during your stay. I very much enjoyed watching the locals walk around barefoot, clad in their multi-colored traditional wear, with flowers braided into their hair.
My husband and I spent a total of five days over there, and it was just enough time for us to explore the whole of the two islands.
Getting there
My husband and I opted to go via Scoot Fast Cruise as we had read many good things about their services prior to our trip. Our boat transfer tickets were purchased a day before at one of the tourist information kiosks we stumbled upon whilst exploring the central of Sanur. For a one way trip to Nusa Lembongan, an open one way trip to Gili Trawangan, inclusive of hotel transfers, we paid 500,000rp (about RM150) each - a pretty fair deal if I do say so. We were picked up across from our hotel at around nine in the morning, and were first taken to Scoot Cruise's main office to check ourselves in. At the Sanur Jetty, we were given a short briefing by Scoot Cruises' owner regarding on board safety and also the history of the islands before we were allowed to board our boat. Our journey began at 10.30AM, and took a mere half an hour. Despite so, it felt like the longest boat ride that I have ever experienced. Unfortunately for us, the sea currents were ridiculously rough, and had caused more than half the boat to be sea sick. One poor boy was vomiting non-stop throughout the whole journey.
As we arrived at Jungutbatu and disembarked our boat, we were separated into different pick-up trucks according to our respective accommodations and where they were located. My husband and I had chosen to stay in Nusa Ceningan, which is linked to Nusa Lembongan via a gorgeous yellow hang bridge. Since the bridge isn't accessible by pick-up trucks (it is very narrow - only wide enough for scooters), we were dropped on the Lembongan side of the bridge, and continued our journey on foot. From here on, you have a choice of making arrangements with your hotel to pick you up, or rent a scooter from the locals. In our case, we were elated to walk to our hotel as it allowed us to breathe in every inch of beauty the island had to offer at our own pace.
Where we stayed
We stayed at Twilight Huts, Nusa Ceningan. It is located right at Dream Point, hence we were spoiled with an ethereal view of the wide blue ocean. There are only five huts altogether in their premises which is nice as it gives off a very private and intimate feel. Our hut was fairly basic but more than adequate - it came equipped with a queen-sized bed, air-conditioner and fan, a dressing table, an outdoor bathroom (always a win for us!) that has both cold and hot water (though they only have salt water, but it's just the way it is on the islands so it didn't really bother us). Outside, there was a spacious porch with a coffee table and chairs where we spent quite some time kicking back whilst enjoying numerous glasses of milkshakes. The only drawback for me was that the room was poorly lit.
Our stay at the hotel came with complimentary breakfasts consisting of eggs cooked in our choice, toasts, fruits, coffee/tea, and orange juice which we like to enjoy overlooking the ocean. They also have other choices of (non-complimentary) breakfasts, varying from western to Indonesian, to choose from if you prefer something different. For muslim visitors, unfortunately they do not serve halal food. With the exception of breakfast, my husband and I always choose to eat elsewhere for both lunch and dinner.
A point that I have to add is that the pool and restaurant closes at 9.30PM as that is when all the workers head home for the night. Overall, we enjoyed our stay at Twilight Huts - great people, great place, great hospitality.
Transportation
Scooters are the main form of transport around both islands, and they are widely available for rent. We rented ours directly from our hotel for 80,000rp a day. The roads are kind of rough and full of potholes though, especially in Ceningan as most of them have not been paved - but it really just needs a matter of practice and getting used to. For those who are not comfortable with riding by themselves, willing locals are more than happy to transport you on the back of their scooter for a fee. If the scooter is a total no-no for you, you have the option of renting a golf buggy, a bicycle, or you could get around on foot.
Other than the basic pick-up trucks used by most of the hotels, there are virtually no cars on the islands. But I have heard that some of these hotels and restaurants on Lembongan offer free pick-up and drop-off services to and from your accommodation.
Do not be surprised if you are given a scooter with no license plate to rent. Almost all of the scooters on Lembongan and Ceningan are without them. Helmets are also only given when requested. The only people who can be seen wearing helmets while riding on scooters are tourists to be honest. Proves how carefree life is over there - I love it.
Things to do
Dream Beach
Dream beach is one of the most spectacular beaches on the whole of Nusa Lembongan. A picturesque narrow strip of fine white sand, complimented by a wide pool of clear turquoise water - it is the ideal place to unwind while witnessing the relentless force of the ocean. Boy, did it live up to it's name. My husband and I didn't think twice about jumping into the oncoming waves, surrendering ourselves to the water and letting it's buoyancy sustain and carry us. The strong currents and massive waves do not exactly make the beach a suitable place for swimming (especially for children and non-swimmers), but my husband and I had a wondrous time getting our butts kicked by the waves regardless. We went to a number of beaches during our stay, but we always end up going back to Dream Beach to swim.
If salt water isn't your thing, and you don't enjoy getting sand in your hair (what are you even doing on an island?!), you can instead soak your body in the infinity pool at Dream Beach Huts which overlooks the gorgeous coastline of Dream Beach for a small fee.
Devil's Tears
Massive waves break onto narrow niches on a cliff, producing dramatic swashes with merciless, thundering sounds. Thin wisps of ocean spray dampen everything and everyone on the shore. Devil's Tears, aptly named for it's daunting showcase of Mother Nature's raw power, is violently beautiful. It is majestic, exhilarating, and menacing all at the same time. No picture or video can do this place justice. It was undoubtedly my most favorite attraction on the whole of the two islands. Turtles seem to favor the place as well as we recurrently saw a number of them imperially ducking and diving through the ferocious waves. I made my husband take me to this spot everyday whilst we were there. Devil's Tears is also an idyllic place to witness celestial sunsets.
Blue Lagoon
Imagine a location that is so beautiful it takes your breath away. There is such a place in Nusa Ceningan and that is the Blue Lagoon. When I first caught sight of it, I couldn't believe at how turquoise the water was. It is the picture perfect ideal of an island paradise.
As we explored the area on foot, we stumbled upon what used to be Blue Lagoon's cliff jumping point. Remnants of what looked like a cafe complete with rock stools, tables, and a run-down hut could be seen at the area. The overhanging ledge where people used to jump from still exists to this day. What could be seen missing was the ladder used to climb back up the cliff, and this is apparently to discourage people from still jumping. Cliff-jumping at Blue Lagoon is now prohibited due to a number of unsuspecting tourists being hurt in the act.
Zipline
The zipline attraction is still relatively new and is located near Ceningan point. Be amazed by the amazing views as you 'fly' across the lagoon. All it takes is just 90,000rp.
Mahana Point
Mahana Point is a tiny little bar nestled on a small cliff edge at Ceningan that has a perfect view of the surfers below. For you adrenaline junkies, you can hurl yourself off the bar's cliff top and into the sea - yes, the bar is also a cliff-jumping point. Unfortunately, my husband and I didn't get to jump because the currents were too rough at the time. We instead spent the evening drinking milkshakes, and hanging out with the locals, whilst watching the sun set gloriously.
Snorkeling
There are tons of snorkeling/diving packages that are offered throughout the islands. My husband and I paid 500,000rp for a private boat to take us on a three-spot snorkeling tour. Our first stop was Gamat Bay. Contrary to it's name, there were no gamats (sea cucumber) in sight. However so, the waters were overflowing with corals and colorful fishes. Buuuut, the sea currents were at it again, swaying me here and there until I got seasick. Who gets seasick from snorkeling?! I persevered and continued snorkeling, but not before I puked all my breakfast out just after we arrived at our second stop, Coral Bay. The water was clear and calm here, and there were more to see and witness. With that said however, my favorite had to be our third and final stop, and that is Mangrove Point. We didn't stay long though as we saw a number of jellyfishes lingering around.
Mangrove Tour
We saw a number of 'mangrove tour' signs around the island, and thought - why not? We've never been on a mangrove tour. Tours can be organized in Jungutbatu, but it is cheaper if you make your way there yourself and arrange a deal with one of the boatmen on the spot. The tour is operated by having a sampan boat going around the mangrove forest where you will experience an extreme quietness, a relaxing, and an almost magical atmosphere. As you slowly move deeper into the forest, you will be welcomed by the sound of birds singing a variety of different melodies. The mangrove forest is indeed a unique place that I enjoyed much more than I had expected to.
Beach Hopping
Needless to say, the beaches at Lembongan and Ceningan are all captivating, and they each have their own charm. If you want somewhere secluded and quiet to watch the sunset, Sunset Beach is the place. If you're looking for something a little adventurous and lively like water sports, head to Jungutbatu Beach. Fancy some drinks by the beach? Mushroom Beach has an array of cafes and bars along it's stretch. Secret Beach is for those who wants to unwind by the waves without the disturbance of large crowds.
Jungutbatu
Jungutbatu is the main village, and the most developed area in Nusa Lembongan with multiple resorts, eating outfits, tour booking offices, and mini marts. It has the longest beach on the island, and is filled with moored boats from Bali's mainland - making it somewhat unsuitable for swimming and/or snorkeling. Jungutbatu is also the one and only place on both Lembongan and Ceningan where you will find an ATM (yes, there is only one of them) and a clinic if ever you need one.
Panorama Point
We actually stumbled by this place by accident. Panoroma Point is nestled on the hill up from Jungutbatu where you can see a bird's eye view of the main beach with the copious amount of boats, the red topped buildings of the village, the greens of coconut trees, and of course the crystal clear water surrounding the island. It is a view that will forever be etched in my mind.
Watch locals fish and harvest seaweed
My husband and I spent one of our mornings in Ceningan doing just this. Watching them is indeed a unique experience. The locals use self-made rods, spears, and various types of nets to fish - none of those modern day fishing tools. If you enquire, the locals will be more than happy to share with you regarding the methods they use for fishing, some fishing tips, and/or about their catch of the day. As for seaweed harvesting, where else are you going to be able to witness that? Not in my country.
Explore the islands
This. Just explore both the islands beyond what's written on the map. We found some amazing and incredible places by taking paths that are less traveled, especially around Devil's Tears and Blue Lagoon. I can't stress enough on how much beauty the islands have to offer. Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan are just full of treasures - from magnificent landscapes, wonderful beaches, to lush jungles. The more we explored, and immersed ourselves in adventures and the outdoors, the more we were amazed.
Food
As I previously mentioned, the majority of people on both islands (and the whole of Bali) are Hindu, hence finding halal food was close to impossible. When I was doing my research regarding halal food in Nusa Lembongan, and Nusa Ceningan, I found zero information. I thought that we would have to only feast on seafood and vegetarian delicacies (and I don't eat veggies) during our stay, but thank goodness we had stumbled upon a stall selling halal food in Nusa Lembongan.
They served the usual Indonesian food like bakso, mee ayam, ayam penyet (my favorite!) and such. I ate their ayam penyet every single day while we were there. Delicious, and cheap. We had asked them if there were any other stalls or restaurants that served halal food, and according to them there's only one other stall which sells satay. We only got to eat at Warung Madura during our second last day because they seemed to always be closed when we dropped by. They also had bakso, and mixed rice at this stall. We opted for their satay which was served with white rice. It was simple, but very pleasing to the taste - we even ordered an extra portion to be shared. According to them as well, there were no other halal restaurants and/or stalls around.
I can't tell you where exactly the two places are as I don't know the name of the street where they are located, but you will find these two places on the way to Mushroom Beach.
I advise that you stock up on instant noodles and a variety of snacks before heading to Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan. Pop Mie (Indonesia's Maggi) can be easily found on both islands - this is what we survived on when we were too tired to head out for dinner.
Traveling Tips
- Pack light. It would be tough to carry or drag bulky luggages especially since scooters are the main form of transportation. Overpacking will only cause you more trouble than do you good. During our ten-day trip, I had only packed three days worth of clothes, two pajamas, swimming attire, undies, and a pair of shoes. Laundry services can be easily found on the island, but if you are on a budget like us, you can just get a small pack of laundry detergent and hand-wash the clothes yourself. Anyways, we practically lived in our swimming attires so we didn't need that many clothes.
- Make acquaintances with both the locals and the tourists. A fundamental part of the travel experience is meeting new people, discovering different cultures, and sharing adventures with others along the way. My husband is the friendly type and would struck a conversation with everyone and anyone, and that got us making a bunch of friends. We got to know how the locals live on a more personal level, trade traveling tips with a bunch of Australians and Canadians, and we spent an entire evening with two moviemakers from Czech Republic talking about everything under the sun.
- Everything on Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan closes early. Although they don't have specific closing times, most restaurants and stalls close between 9 to 10PM. It is very quiet at night and there is basically no nightlife on the two islands.
- Bring enough cash for the duration of your stay. As mentioned, there is only one ATM on Nusa Lembongan and it is known to sometimes be out of order. The large resorts accept credit cards, but almost all the other places operate on a cash only basis.
- Don't wait to explore Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan. There are already some resorts and developments, but they haven't taken over the place yet. Everything still has an authentic and down to earth feel. Tourism is growing fast however, and they are building a number of big resorts at the moment. So book your tickets now before they start to lose their charm!
